Pop Off, Poplin!

How this humble little fabric became summer's BFF

Do you guys ever think about fabrics as personalities? Or am I the only crazy one?

Silk, for instance. She’s the regal Grande Dame of any social scene; deliberate and exacting in her every move, always polished to perfection. Wool, on the other hand, is an introverted bookworm who loves to read and drink tea by her cozy fireplace, every now and then heading outside to grab a new log for the fire. And Linen? She hasn’t a care in the world! Always seaside with a bottle of rosé and a trail of laughter in her wake, making plans she fully intends to cancel later.

And the best friend of all three? You guessed it: Cotton Poplin.

Poplin is everyone’s BFF. She’s easygoing, versatile, and likes to come along for any ride - be it cabins, beaches or cityscapes. She’s humbler than Silk but has her sh*t more together than Linen. She plays well with everyone and is dependable—rain or shine—always known to make every situation just a smidge easier.

Given her magnetic personality and willingness to go above and beyond for all her friends, it’s no surprise that Ms. Poplin has “popped off” as of late, and won a spot in so many of our hearts and closets. She’s game for anything & everything, generally wears well trans-seasonally and always brings out the best in other textures. She’s simple yet chic, humble yet lustrous.

Today I’m diving into just how broadly poplin has taken over the fashion conversation…possibly as much as it’s taken over my own wardrobe! (And I’d venture to say, yours too?!) We’ll dive into a bit of fashion history and then get straight to the good stuff — cotton poplin goodies galore to incorporate into your looks this summer, along with some styling ideas to give this versatile queen her due. If you find yourself wanting to go exclusive with Ms. CP after this post, something tells me she’d be up for a fun summer fling…!

“Papeline”

Mademoiselle Papeline

I’m going to share something now that’s going to make everything about this fabric make that much more sense: she’s French. Like, OF COURSE SHE IS?!? Poplin is originally known as “papeline,” the French word for ‘papal residency.’ This is bc the fabric was first constructed in the 15th century in a papal city: Avignon, to be exact. So right off the bat you should know that we’re all walking around wearing French Papal Cotton. Who knew we were that chic?!

The plot thickens though, bc back then, poplin was actually a plain weave fabric made of fine silk and wool yarns—not cotton! We didn’t apply the simple poplin weave to cotton until the Industrial Revolution, when machinery made production of the fabric in this manner more accessible and affordable. But even then, it wasn’t known as poplin. In fact, when British-made cotton poplin was introduced to the United States in the 20th century, the term “poplin” still carried some of its heavy silk & wool origin story. So Americans rebranded it as “broadcloth”— a term that’s still used to this day, but more so in men’s shirting. Somewhere along the way, we decided let broadcloth be just that—broad, thick & sturdy—and bring back the delicate French sensibilities to poplin as a finer cotton fabric, and so she’s rightfully regained her throne to versatile wardrobe dominance yet again!

Poplin’s Penchants

So, if we’re spending a ton of time this summer with our new BFF, we should get to know her a bit better, right?! What really makes her tick? What’s she all about? And why does she always seem to get it right?!

Weave & Structure

Poplin is a plain weave, meaning the warp and weft threads alternate in each row and column, creating a super simple structure. It’s literally ‘under and over’ weaving in its most basic sense.

But WTF is a warp and a weft? Warp yarns are the long, vertical threads that run the length of the fabric, typically held under tension on a loom (light gray below). Weft yarns are the horizontal threads that are woven over and under the warp threads (dark gray below). The key to poplin's look and feel is the use of a fine warp yarn and a coarse weft yarn. This mild tension creates a subtle ribbing effect that gives poplin its lightweight, silky smooth hand feel. (Yet again, tension works wonders in fashion!)

Doesn’t get simpler than this weave, folks! Image via Savile Row Company London

Yarn Quality & Finishing Process

Yarn quality also plays a big role in cotton poplin’s hand feel. Longer fiber (usually called long-staple) lengths produce finer, smoother yarns, leading to a softer feel.

Then you have the finishing process, or treatments applied to the fabric during manufacturing. This includes softening/conditioning or mercerization, a chemical process that enhances luster, increases fabric strength, and improves dye uptake. When done under tension, mercerization gives poplin a smoother sheen, while also providing its signature “crisp” feel.

All this boils down to cotton poplin’s best characteristics: lightweight, strong, breathable, smooth & crisp! All the qualities you want in a wardrobe BFF, right?

I tell you all this not to bore you out of your mind, but bc I’m a big believer that the more we actually know about the way our clothes are made and what they consist of, the better we become at understanding the types of fabrics, cuts, and styles we prefer!

The Poplin Parade

And now, the real reason we’re all here…to discover all the yummy poplin BFFs that some of our favorite brands are poppin’ out this summer. I’ll break them down by category as per my usual approach, along with some styling takes!

POPLIN PANTS

blue striped // white barrel // butter yellow // green striped // pink // brown // red // black // wear with: earrings (SOGOLE15) // cashmere tee // leather flippies // bodysuit* // straw tote

We must start with the most popular 2025 poplin incarnation of all: the poplin pant. She’s fully come into her own this season, and I’m so here for it. I personally struggle to wear jeans once temps hit above 80, so the lightweight & easy nature of the CP pant is a welcome reprieve. While some may think poplin pants (and maybe poplin in general) can veer casual, I find them very easy to dress up or down with the flash of a kitten heel or the addition of a structured jacket/some jewelry.

LEFT: shirt // necklace // old La Ligne Colby pants (comp) // flippies // MIDDLE: old TWP silk button-down (comp) // pants (sale! another great option) // paracord bracelet // old The Row Signum heels (great dupe) // RIGHT: sweater // pants // flippies

POPLIN TOPS

plaid // white tank // navy vest // red cropped // striped tank // black cropped tee // blue striped // green striped // wear with: sunnies // flat sandals // denim shorts // necklace // kitten heel sandals*

Wherever there’s a pant, a top is sure to follow. Poplin tops are the most obvious of the bunch, since the fabric has been primarily used in shirt-making for decades now. I personally prefer my poplin tops either extremely lightweight and airy, or sturdy and crispy. While button-down is the most common format, there are plenty of other CP styles, such as peasant blouses, tie-fronts and apron-style tops, that add ample variety to summer styling.

LEFT: old Toteme top (comp, comp) // pants // flippies // MIDDLE: old Baserange top (comp) // old Frame Denim shorts (comp) // cuffs // sandals // RIGHT: This entire look is for Maureen McLennon…#teamchartreuse til the end. old TWP shirt (comp) // brooch // old Solaqua silk shorts (comp) // old Gianvito Rossi sandals (comp, comp)

POPLIN SKIRTS

red // black mini // navy striped // yellow striped // blue striped mini // white // wear with: brown tote // yellow satin sandals // windbreaker // black wrap sandals // ring (SOGOLE15)

Summer is THE season to embrace the fluidity and airiness of the skirt (

Lindsay Sword

would agree!), and what better way to get it done than with poplin? Similar to shirts, you can find poplin skirts in a super airy weight a la DÔEN, or a heavier, lustrous finish that usually results in a weighty circle skirt silhouette. I’m a huge fan of CP skirts once June hits, and try to put them into heavy rotation when temps rise—always easy and feminine.

LEFT: tee // necklace // old Stylein skirt (comp, comp), old AGS sandals (comp) // MIDDLE: old J.Crew Etienne shirt (similar stripe), old H&M skirt (comp) // flippies // RIGHT: shell top (also great comp) // old Apiece Apart skirt (comp) // old Emme Parsons sandals (comp) // necklace

POPLIN SHORTS

yellow // white // red // light blue // black // striped with lemons // wear with: metallic net bag // sneakers // sweatshirt // earrings (SOGOLE15) // straw clutch // sandals

This is a slightly newer iteration of CP, largely thanks to the spike in boxer style shorts that have grown in popularity since last summer. I love everything about a poplin short: it’s the coolest option you can choose—perfect for a heat wave—and also beyond comfortable since it’s basically a glorified pajama bottom. I like to wear mine contrasted with longer sleeves to balance proportion, so long as the weather cooperates!

LEFT: old Jamie Haller tee (v. good comp) // shorts // cuff* // old H&M necklace (comp) // sandals*- fantastic dupe for the Khaite Loop sandals! // MIDDLE: shirt // old Onia shorts (comp) // old The Row Bare sandals (comp) // RIGHT: old Matteau shirt (comp and love this take!) // old DISSH shorts (comp) // old Mango flippies (comp)

POPLIN DRESSES

red // orange // red striped // green // black // white // blue striped // light blue // wear with: straw hat // belt // flat sandals // bag // necklace // cardigan // heeled sandals

Of course I could never leave out the quintessential summer garment: the poplin dress. This is about as easy breezy as it gets, while still providing a semblance of structure. In fact, I find some of my poplin dresses are well-constructed enough to wear without a bra (or with stealth support a la this handy helper)—which is quite freeing on those extra hot days when even a wisp of a bra is another annoying layer to contend with!

LEFT: old Joseph dress (comp) // old Neous slides (comp) // MIDDLE: old Staud dress (same dress in longer length) // cuff* // sandals // RIGHT: old H&M dress (comp) // sandals

POPLIN JACKETS

tan anorak // blue blouson jacket // brown crinkle blazer // white shirt jacket // ivory barn jacket // gingham cotton jacket // wear with: red mesh tote // gold sandals // dress // shell clutch // yellow resin cuff // beaded sandals

Maybe not the most obvious employment of CP but certainly one of the handiest! I love a cotton jacket in the summer - there’s truly nothing easier. And most of us still need outerwear even in the height of the warmest months, as almost no matter where you live, temps can dip at night. A CP jacket is also a handy transitional piece come the onset of fall, when you’re just starting to think about wearing a jacket during the day again.

LEFT: old Leset Kyoto coat (thank you Depop Gods! comp) // old Abercrombie tee (comp) // pants // flippies // RIGHT: old Zara jacket (comp) // tee // shorts // old By Far sandals (comp)

Mlle. Papeline: Isn’t she the best friend a summer gal can have?!

Thank you for reading — and happy first day of summer! Until next week! xx

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