The High/Low Remix

Rethinking how we create tension

You know that moment when you pull together an outfit, look in the mirror and think, “Dayummmmmm!” That ‘aha!’ moment when the look just hits and you feel your absolute best ever?!

We’re all just chasing that moment, aren’t we. And who can blame us? That feeling of really owning our style and settling into a look that’s the best version of ourselves is the holy grail. When this magic moment happens, I always try to take stock. What about this outfit is making it feel better than the others? Why do I feel so good in it? What makes it zing?

I promise you, almost 100% of the time, the answer is tension.

Tension is truly what takes an outfit from good to great. It’s that elusive ‘thing’ that—when executed correctly—changes the game entirely. And it’s probably the lever that stylists pull the most, as it has such a strong ability to make an outfit feel like more than just the sum of its parts. Tension is the secret sauce.

Tension is often confused with contrast—but they are so not the same. Contrast is just the pairing of two opposites: black & white, slim & oversized, masculine & feminine. Tension, on the other hand, is about creating friction; introducing an element or a pairing that feels out of place, yet still works in the broader context of the look. The best way I can describe it is that contrast reads as visual, while tension registers as emotional—it makes us feel something. And the best way to really tap into that feeling is by mixing the high and the low.

Tension makes us feel things…!

High/low dressing is certainly nothing new. In fact, many point to that moment in 1998 where Sharon Stone donned a GAP button-down with a satin Vera Wang ball skirt to the Oscars as the epitome of high/low. The concept has been floating around ever since, albeit in varying iterations and intensities, but seems to have landed in a literal place, where the pairing consists of “high” aka expensive designer clothing with “low” aka affordable mall brands. This is the main construct most of us conjure up when thinking of high/low dressing today.

Sharon Stone at the 1998 Oscars—a woman before her time.

But the beauty of high/low dressing is that it’s not so one note as mixing the expensive with the affordable and calling it a day. In fact, there are plenty of interpretations of high/low that all add that coveted tension to our looks when harnessed with consideration.

These variations of high/low have been on my mind as of late, as I take stock not only of what seems to be happening on the runways and in fashion more broadly, but also of what works specifically for my life. These days, I find myself defaulting to the minimal effort side of the spectrum when getting dressed—not to be confused with minimal dressing, per se. I’m currently in a “low lift phase,” where I want my looks to perform extra hard without actually having to put in extra hard work. Layering? Ugh I guess if I have to. Accessorizing? Fine, twist my arm. A pop of color? I mean, sure, why not.

Thanks to my newfound laziness, it tracks that I’m searching for ways to make maximum impact with minimal effort. That’s why tension has been so top of mind for me. It doesn’t always require a bunch of extra steps or flourishes—all it takes is considering it at the outset. That way you build an outfit with tension inherently in mind, and boom: max impact, min effort.

Market Tension: Designer + Mass

Our default way of dressing—mixing luxury pieces with affordable ones. striped shirt // jeans // woven sandals // gray hoodie // red pants // blue sandals // canvas tote // silk scarf

Let’s start with the most obvious high/low combo: designer meets mass. I won’t spend a ton of time here bc duh, but mixing designer labels with mall brands is how women today dress—period—myself very much included. It doesn’t matter if you’re a billionaire or a Poshmark Princess, mixing Marni with Madewell and Heirlome with H&M is the baseline these days. Not only is it a modern way of dressing, it’s also a signifier of great style—just like Sharon proved nearly 30 years ago.

And these days, we’re lucky that so many affordable pieces really do look & feel elevated, if you know what to look for. Natural fibers, considered design, and well-made staples are all easy to score from mall brands without feeling like you’re compromising on fit or function. Will a GAP t-shirt present exactly the same as one from The Row? Of course not. But we have to pick & choose where we invest. No matter; this is our default mode of dressing in 2026, and we’re better for it!

Refinement Tension: Precious + Ratty

We’re responding to worn-in, well-loved pieces that add dimension to our closets. sweatshirt // silk brooch // silk shirt // distressed jeans // sandals // vintage Kelly Retourne 40 // bandana

Pairing the refined with the distressed or the pristine with the worn-in is the type of tension that seems to be hitting a fever pitch right now. We’re seeing it everywhere—from the Prada Men’s FW26 runway, which featured intentionally soiled & frayed shirting details, to Sophie Bille Brahe’s imagery of ratty clothes paired with mega diamonds. The tension created by the elevated juxtaposed against the well-worn is very much in the zeitgeist right now…which probably explains why my top search term this January was “beat up Kelly bag.” Who wants brand new when you can have something full of life, instead?

The unicorn: an item that’s both precious AND ratty. My “beat up Kelly” in the flesh!

Formality Tension: Dressy + Casual

Southern California’s inherently casual lean means I’m always dressing like this — one to two parts casual to one part faaaaancy. necklace // windbreaker // trousers // flippies // socks // mules // taffeta coat // earrings // gray sweatpants // sneaks

This type of tension is likely the easiest for most of us to pull off, bc it’s pretty comfortable. Pairing sweatpants with a croc-embossed loafer or bitchy kitten heel feels slightly wrong but cool, just as pairing sneakers with tailored trousers has been a ‘thing’ for a while now. But just bc something feels expected doesn’t make it any less of a tool. And while it can be easy to think about formality tension in terms of items (i.e., a heel with a sweatpant)—consider this a reminder to mix dressy/casual materiality and function as well: satin with denim, evening wear with workout wear, and everything in between.

Complexity Tension: Intricate + Basic

Combining the ornate with the simple is one of the easiest ways to neutralize an otherwise complex piece and make styling those “specific but special” pieces in our closets a total breeze. fringe top // jeans // striped tee // embellished scarf // sweatshirt // fringe pants

One of the elements that usually makes our outfits compelling is visual complexity—which is the most likely to be confused for contrast. But it’s more nuanced than just pairing something embellished with something simple; it’s about how the pairing works to tell a larger story. This is partly why everyone went gaga for the Connor Ives coat; sure the coat itself was stun-ning, but the way it was styled with a graphic tee & jeans is ultimately what made the whole thing sing. (Read Kelly Williams brilliant ideas on that here!) When we take the extraordinary, and dumb it down with the ordinary, the whole proposition becomes much more compelling.

I love a basic-intricate-basic sandwich! And yes…I fully optioned this look from Kallmeyer SS26. polo sweatshirt (great comp) // old Khaite skirt (comp) // flippies

Rarity Tension: Vintage + New

Pairing the new and the old is a tale as old as time, but one of the best ways we can stand out from the crowd. vintage earrings // gray tee // barn jacket // vintage dress // flippies* // gold minaudière // lace slingbacks

In some cases, mixing vintage with new can mimic the aforementioned refinement tension, bc the condition of vintage pieces are typically worn-in—as is the case with my Kelly bag. However, I’d encourage us to think about this type of tension less about the pristine meeting the ratty and instead about the discovered meeting the mundane, or the curated meeting the everyday. This is how we emphasize the personal part of personal style. This type of tension is the tension only you and you alone can create: your grandmother’s heirloom brooch paired with an H&M hoodie, an archival Celine belt strapped atop Agolde jeans, even a vintage graphic tee thrown under a Chloé tux blazer. These are the fingerprints of your wardrobe; no two are the same and they belong squarely and only to you.

Of course, these categories rarely stay neatly separated. Vintage pieces can be ratty, basics can be expensive, and dressy garments can also be intricate. The point isn’t to turn tension into a science, but simply to recognize it as a tool and tap into it when we’re lazy, stuck or bored. Leaning into the high/low by merging two unexpected elements in an outfit can help spice things up and give it that coveted zing. And more often than not, that’s the moment you catch your reflection and think dayummmm!

That’s it for today—thank you for reading! Until next week xx

---

AFN discount codes for brands linked above: Emily Kuvin (SOGOLE20)

---

I use affiliate links where applicable throughout my posts, so I may receive a small commission from things you buy (but at no cost to you!) Thank you for supporting me in this little way so I can keep writing every week.

*Occasionally brands send me gifts. I will always note these with an asterisk, but I would also never feature anything I don’t love and wear on the regular.